Jekyll2024-02-05T15:20:16+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/feed.xmlRuby on WheelsA developer on the road.Building the Kitchenette2022-12-02T00:00:00+00:002022-12-02T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/building-the-kitchenette<p>I envisioned a larger kitchenette for my truck compared to what I <a href="/blog/building-the-kitchen/">had built</a> in my <a href="/blog/presenting-my-mercedes-508d/">previous van</a>. While I was quite satisfied with the sink and the extendable faucet, I aimed for two cooking burners instead of just one, readily available without any modifications. Instead of a cooler box, I wanted to experiment with a regular domestic refrigerator featuring a freezer compartment. Additionally, I was considering a multi-functional oven serving as an air fryer, grill, oven, toaster, and dehydrator. This setup was intended to ensure that the kitchen in my truck would be on par with a standard household kitchen, leaving nothing to be desired.</p>
<p>The roughly two-meter-wide space between the <a href="/blog/building-the-seating-area/">seating area</a> and the <a href="/blog/building-the-skeleton-of-the-bathroom/">bathroom cabin</a> seemed to provide sufficient room for the kitchen. To begin, I initiated the construction of the side walls for the lower cabinets.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5479.jpg" alt="Initial construction of the side walls for the lower cabinets in the kitchen" /></p>
<p>Subsequently, I cut the countertop to size and sawed out the recesses for the kitchen appliances.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5505.jpg" alt="Raw countertop with the recesses for the kitchen appliances" /></p>
<p>After sanding and oiling, the customized oak board was ready for installation.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5579.jpg" alt="Fitted countertop" /></p>
<p>The extendable faucet was easy to install.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5593.jpg" alt="Sink and extendable faucet" /></p>
<p>After sealing the sink with silicone on the countertop, I secured it from underneath using custom-made wooden adapters.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5592.jpg" alt="View on the sink from underneath the countertop" /></p>
<p>I ran a few cables into the side wall of the <a href="/blog/building-the-skeleton-of-the-bathroom/">bathroom cabin</a>,</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5649.jpg" alt="Cables running through the side wall of the bathroom cabin" /></p>
<p>and finally, I installed the outer paneling.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5655.jpg" alt="Installing the outer paneling of the bathroom cabin" /></p>
<p>The refrigerator had to be positioned with some lateral distance from the bathroom cabin to allow the door to be properly opened without hitting the slightly protruding side wall of the bathroom. Since I didn’t want to leave the approximately 10cm-wide gap between the refrigerator and the bathroom unused, I built a vertical pull-out cabinet with three compartments.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5660.jpg" alt="Vertical pull-out cabinet with three compartments" /></p>
<p>I removed the front feet of the refrigerator to allow the rear rail with the compressor unit to be recessed into the kitchen countertop.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5600.jpg" alt="Refrigerator placed into the cutout of the countertop" /></p>
<p>Placing the refrigerator into the millimeter-precise cutout and utilizing the threads originally intended for the front feet, I securely fastened the refrigerator, preventing it from moving during transit.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5662.jpg" alt="Refrigerator onto the countertop" /></p>
<p>After securing the refrigerator in its designated spot, I proceeded building the bracket for the oven.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5716.jpg" alt="Bracket for the oven above the fridge" /></p>
<p>Et voilà, the fundamental units of the kitchen were ready for use: an induction stove, a sink, a refrigerator, and a multi-function oven.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5719.jpg" alt="Bracket for the oven above the fridge" /></p>
<p>The initial batch of homemade fries from the air fryer tasted especially good! :wink:</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5721.jpg" alt="Homemade fries in the air fryer" /></p>
<p>The improvisational built pull-out cabinet proved to be an incredibly useful storage space—no wasted space! :+1:</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5724.jpg" alt="Vertical pull-out cabinet filled with supplies" /></p>
<p>From that point onward, I could finally enjoy cooking in my new home.</p>I envisioned a larger kitchenette for my truck compared to what I had built in my previous van. While I was quite satisfied with the sink and the extendable faucet, I aimed for two cooking burners instead of just one, readily available without any modifications. Instead of a cooler box, I wanted to experiment with a regular domestic refrigerator featuring a freezer compartment. Additionally, I was considering a multi-functional oven serving as an air fryer, grill, oven, toaster, and dehydrator. This setup was intended to ensure that the kitchen in my truck would be on par with a standard household kitchen, leaving nothing to be desired.Selling my Mercedes 508D2022-11-09T00:00:00+00:002022-11-09T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/selling-my-mercedes-508d<p>An era had come to an end: <a href="/blog/moving-into-an-old-military-ambulance/">After</a> over 4 years of <a href="/blog/approaching-the-arctic-circle/">incredibly</a> <a href="/blog/starting-the-new-year-on-the-canary-islands/">amazing</a> <a href="/blog/enjoying-the-swiss-mountains/">experiences</a> with my <a href="/blog/presenting-my-mercedes-508d/">self-converted Mercedes 508D</a>, I decided to say goodbye to my dream camper van. Upon <a href="/blog/buying-an-old-mercedes-1113-truck/">buying the Mercedes 1113 truck</a>, I understood that eventually parting ways with one of my vehicles was inevitable. Owning two vintage vehicles simultaneously felt out of place for a nomad like myself.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5554.jpg" alt="My Mercedes 508D parked next to my Mercedes 1113" /></p>
<p>Maintaining the good condition of these old, beautiful, and reliable vehicles would require regular maintenance and care. While the truck’s conversion had reached an <a href="/blog/building-the-seating-area/">advanced stage</a>, I spent hardly any time in the 508D. Yet, I had to <a href="/blog/replacing-thermostat-of-a-dometic-cfx-50-refrigerator/">take care</a> of the vehicle repeatedly, which distracted me from working on the truck and gradually became more of a burden.</p>
<p>Realizing that ownership carried responsibility, possessing fewer things appeared more liberating to me. I was ready to part with my beloved Mercedes 508D. Given the perfect condition and high-quality conversion of the van, I had no doubts about finding a buyer willing to pay a fair price.</p>
<p>After packing a few boxes,</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5538.jpg" alt="Packing my personal belongings in the Mercedes 508D into boxes" /></p>
<p>the van was emptied and ready for sale.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5544.jpg" alt="View of the interior of the Mercedes 508D from the front" /></p>
<p>Oh, what a snug home on wheels it had been!</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5540.jpg" alt="View of the interior of the Mercedes 508D from the back" /></p>
<p>When entering the van for the last time, a flood of memories washed over me – this cozy home on wheels had witnessed countless beautiful moments.</p>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sgSnwsWCwIQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>Everything unfolded rapidly. In just a matter of days, the van was sold. I witnessed my van in motion for the first time, but this time from an external perspective - without me at the steering wheel. What an incredible journey!</p>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GtChJB6H1a0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>Nevertheless, all of this felt right. As the van disappeared on the horizon, I felt a sense of relief, filling me with energy and motivation to persist in my ongoing endeavor — the conversion of the Mercedes 1113 truck into house on wheels, a project aimed at surpassing the legacy of the 508D once again.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/1113.jpg" alt="My Mercedes 508D parked next to my Mercedes 1113" /></p>An era had come to an end: After over 4 years of incredibly amazing experiences with my self-converted Mercedes 508D, I decided to say goodbye to my dream camper van. Upon buying the Mercedes 1113 truck, I understood that eventually parting ways with one of my vehicles was inevitable. Owning two vintage vehicles simultaneously felt out of place for a nomad like myself.Replacing the thermostat of a Dometic CFX 50 refrigerator2022-11-04T00:00:00+00:002022-11-04T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/replacing-thermostat-of-a-dometic-cfx-50-refrigerator<p>Suddenly, the compressor of my Dometic CFX 50 refrigerator in my Mercedes 508D was running continuously, even though the cooling compartment was extremely cold. To my surprise, the temperature displayed on the screen was 43 degrees Celsius, indicating a possible thermostat malfunction.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5510.jpg" alt="Screen displaying a temperature of 43 degrees Celsius" /></p>
<p>I was able to find a replacement thermostat in an online shop for a few euros and replaced it using the following steps:</p>
<p>First, I removed the 14 screws holding the vent on both sides (3 on each side),</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5532.jpg" alt="Screws holding the vent on the side" /></p>
<p>and the (8) bottom,</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5530_2.jpg" alt="Screws holding the vent on the bottom" /></p>
<p>to carefully open the vent.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5529_2.jpg" alt="Open vent" /></p>
<p>In order to remove the two screws holding the thermostat wire, I had to remove the compressor control module and its cover by loosening the screws holding the cover,</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5527.jpg" alt="Screws holding the cover of the compressor module" /></p>
<p>and the screw behind the module holding it.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5526.jpg" alt="Screw holding the compressor control module" /></p>
<p>After pushing the compressor control module aside, I was able to remove the screws holding the thermostat wire,</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5512.jpg" alt="Screws holding the thermostat wire" /></p>
<p>and could carefully pull the thermostat out of place.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5523.jpg" alt="Thermostat" /></p>
<p>In order to disconnect the thermostat from the main PCB, I had to remove its cover by loosing the screws holding it.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5529_3.jpg" alt="Screws holding the cover of the main PCB cover" /></p>
<p>Then the screws holding the main PCB could be loosened,</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5528.jpg" alt="Screws holding the main PCB cover" /></p>
<p>to finally disconnect and remove the thermostat.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5518.jpg" alt="Connector for the thermostat" /></p>
<p>Unfortunately, the connectors of the new thermostat didn’t match with the connectors of the old one.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5520.jpg" alt="Mismatching connectors of the thermostats" /></p>
<p>So, I simply soldered the connection of the old thermostat to the new one.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5521.jpg" alt="Soldering the connection of the old thermostat to the new one" /></p>
<p>After stripping the wires, I attached the new thermostat to the main PCB and reassembled everything in reverse order.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5522.jpg" alt="New Thermostat connected to the main PCB" /></p>
<p>The screen displayed the correct temperature and the refrigerator was working again. :tada:</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5533.jpg" alt="Screen displaying the proper temperature" /></p>Suddenly, the compressor of my Dometic CFX 50 refrigerator in my Mercedes 508D was running continuously, even though the cooling compartment was extremely cold. To my surprise, the temperature displayed on the screen was 43 degrees Celsius, indicating a possible thermostat malfunction.Building the seating area2022-09-16T00:00:00+00:002022-09-16T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/building-the-seating-area<p>Similar to all the other components that I built for my <a href="/blog/presenting-my-mercedes-508d/">previous van</a>, I identified areas for improvement in the <a href="/blog/building-the-bed/">seating arrangement</a> as well: During winter, I frequently experienced cold feet as the space under the table lacked proper ventilation from the wood stove’s warm air. To achieve genuine comfort, I needed to insert a cushion or similar support between the vertical backrest and my back, creating a slightly inclined seating position. While working, I noticed a consistent habit of pulling the movable table towards my body, causing it to extend beyond the edge of the bench. In this setup, I could comfortably use my laptop while leaning against the backrest. It served well for solo use, but when accommodating a guest who wished to work facing me, either one person endured an uncomfortable position, or both found themselves in a suboptimal situation. Design-wise, it would have been more favorable if the table extended over the edges of the benches on both sides.</p>
<h2 id="refining-the-concept">Refining the concept</h2>
<p>I incorporated these insights into the design of the truck’s concept, creating an improved and more spacious version of my <a href="/blog/building-the-bed/">van’s seating area</a>: Positioned at the center, a large, sliding, and rotating table would provide enough space for two workstations. Following the layout of my van, a U-shaped seating area would surround the table. Slightly angled backrests on both sides would ensure the most comfortable seating position. In the rear section, a daybed would provide room for at least one person to relax or sleep without the need for any adjustments. To accommodate more guests, the table would be height-adjustable, expanding the daybed for up to four people. For optimal comfort during heating, warm air should circulate from the floor and seats, ensuring a warm foot area.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/sketch_seating_area.jpg" alt="Sketch of the new seating area" /></p>
<h2 id="building-the-double-floor">Building the double floor</h2>
<p>The water tank and the seating area would be divided by a double floor. To facilitate the flow of warm air from the <a href="/blog/building-heating-ventilation-shafts/">ventilation shaft</a> behind the <a href="/blog/installing-the-water-tank-pump-and-filters/">water tank</a> into the foot area, I milled slots into the thick tongue-and-groove boards forming the raised floor.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5101.jpg" alt="Milling ventilation slots for the warm air into the floor boards" /></p>
<p>After oiling and sanding the floor panels, they elegantly concealed the water tank while offering vents for the warm, rising air.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5107.jpg" alt="Floor panels mounted above the water tank" /></p>
<h2 id="constructing-the-seats">Constructing the seats</h2>
<p>Starting at the rear, I constructed the basic framework for the seats,</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5108.jpg" alt="Basic framework for the seats in the rear end" /></p>
<p>and gradually progressed on the sides towards the front.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5116.jpg" alt="Basic framework for the seats on the sides" /></p>
<p>To prevent the formation of mold in the seat cushions, I drilled various holes into the removable covers of the seat surfaces.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5136_2.jpg" alt="Drilling holes into the covers of the seat surfaces" /></p>
<p>For additional stability and smoother opening and closing, I glued additional slats to the underside of the covers.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5141.jpg" alt="Enforcing the covers with additional slats" /></p>
<p>After hours of drilling and sanding, the covers were finally completed.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5145.jpg" alt="Finished covers for the seats" /></p>
<p>Sloped covers on the side ventilation shafts would channel the warm air towards the footwell area beneath the table.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5171.jpg" alt="Sloped covers on the side ventilation shafts" /></p>
<p>I constructed sliding doors for the front side of the benches.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5200.jpg" alt="Glueing the sliding door on the framework of the seats" /></p>
<p>When closed, they would prevent the stored items from slipping out.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5221.jpg" alt="Closed sliding doors" /></p>
<p>And to access items, one could simply slide the doors to the side.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5223.jpg" alt="Open sliding door" /></p>
<h2 id="installing-the-table">Installing the table</h2>
<p>I assembled the large table top from multiple pieces of oak using large clamps.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5146.jpg" alt="Glueing the table top together" /></p>
<p>After sanding and oiling, I attached aluminum profiles to the underside to prevent the tabletop from warping due to changes in humidity.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5154.jpg" alt="Aluminum profiles on the underside of the tabletop" /></p>
<p>The beautiful oak tabletop made a robust impression on the sliding, rotating, and height-adjustable table leg.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5166.jpg" alt="Tabletop mounted on the table leg" /></p>
<p>Similar to my previous van, I crafted a base from the same oak wood to securely mount the table on the double floor.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5161.jpg" alt="Base for the table built out of oak wood" /></p>
<p>After sanding, oiling, and assembly, the construction made a beautiful impression on me.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5225.jpg" alt="Table mounted on the base" /></p>
<h2 id="transforming-the-seating-area-into-a-gigantic-bed">Transforming the seating area into a gigantic bed</h2>
<p>In the seating mode, the seat covers were positioned forward to extend beneath the table, creating a gap for securing the back cushions.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5226.jpg" alt="Seat cover positioned forward" /></p>
<p>For the bed mode, the seat covers were shifted to the back.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5227.jpg" alt="Seat covers positioned backward" /></p>
<p>This provided enough space in the middle to lower the table seamlessly.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5228.jpg" alt="Lowered table in bed mode" /></p>
<p>With the cushions, this resulted in a gigantic and cozy guest bed.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5378.jpg" alt="Gigantic and cozy guest bed" /></p>
<p>With a few simple steps, the large bed could be transformed back into a comfortable seating area with a daybed, providing enough space for five to six people.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5384.jpg" alt="Comfortable seating area with a daybed at the rear end" /></p>
<p>I was highly pleased as the cabin gradually transformed into a comfortable and cozy space.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5383.jpg" alt="View from the daybed" /></p>Similar to all the other components that I built for my previous van, I identified areas for improvement in the seating arrangement as well: During winter, I frequently experienced cold feet as the space under the table lacked proper ventilation from the wood stove’s warm air. To achieve genuine comfort, I needed to insert a cushion or similar support between the vertical backrest and my back, creating a slightly inclined seating position. While working, I noticed a consistent habit of pulling the movable table towards my body, causing it to extend beyond the edge of the bench. In this setup, I could comfortably use my laptop while leaning against the backrest. It served well for solo use, but when accommodating a guest who wished to work facing me, either one person endured an uncomfortable position, or both found themselves in a suboptimal situation. Design-wise, it would have been more favorable if the table extended over the edges of the benches on both sides.Installing the water tank, pump and filters2022-08-26T00:00:00+00:002022-08-26T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/installing-the-water-tank-pump-and-filters<p>Overall, I was quite satisfied with the <a href="/blog/installing-the-water-system/">water system</a> I had built for my <a href="/blog/presenting-my-mercedes-508d/">previous van</a>. However, I had discovered areas for improvement over the years: The filling nozzle went directly into the tank, meaning I always had to fill it with clean water to prevent contamination. During long stays of several months in locations with access to a well or a spring, I sometimes wished to be able to pump water directly into the water system of the cabin without having to fill the tank manually with a watering can. As I hadn’t installed a separate drain valve, emptying the tank required pumping the water through the entire system, including the filtration unit. And, of course, it would have been great to be able to store more than 90 liters.</p>
<p>For the truck, I envisioned an upgraded design featuring an external pump (1) capable of drawing water from deep wells and pushing it through a filtration system (2). Two control valves (4a, 4b) would allow to either direct the purified water into the cabin’s water system or store it in a sizable 200-liter tank (5), which could be emptied using a separate drain valve (3).</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/diagram_water_system.jpg" alt="Diagram of the thermal airflow in the cabin" /></p>
<p>The control over the water flow would be as follows:</p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>4a</th>
<th>4b</th>
<th>Effect</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>open</td>
<td>closed</td>
<td>Water would get pushed directly into the water system of the cabin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>open</td>
<td>open</td>
<td>Water would get pushed into the tank (5) or drained through the open valve (3).</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>closed</td>
<td>open</td>
<td>Water would get drawn out of the tank by the internal pump (6) into water system of the cabin.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The remainder of the setup was designed to mirror <a href="/blog/installing-the-water-system/">that of the van</a>: a pump pushing water from the tank through a filtration system, ensuring the removal of germs, chemicals, and unpleasant tastes.</p>
<h2 id="mounting-the-connector-for-the-external-pump">Mounting the connector for the external pump</h2>
<p>I drilled two holes in the floor behind the right rear wheel. One for the drain valve and one for the connection of the external pump.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5997.jpg" alt="Connector for the external pump and hose to drain the tank" /></p>
<p>To protect the connector from dust and dirt stirred up during travel, I repurposed an available stainless steel lunchbox.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5999.jpg" alt="Closed lunchbox protecting the connector" /></p>
<h2 id="setting-up-the-filters">Setting up the filters</h2>
<p>Inside the cabin, I installed a washable 40 micron pre-filter followed by an activated carbon and a 0.3µ ceramic filter. The drain valve followed the filters. This arrangement allowed me to flush the filters after a long period of inactivity by closing the valve 4a and opening the drain valve.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5995.jpg" alt="Filters before the tank" /></p>
<p>To prevent potential contaminants in the tank from entering the plumbing system, I implemented an additional filtering system after the pressure water pump. As the pump in the cabin had slightly less power than the external pump, I chose to arrange two rows of filters in parallel to enhance the flow.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5093.jpg" alt="Filters after the tank" /></p>
<h2 id="installing-the-water-tank">Installing the water tank</h2>
<p>To anchor the 200-liter water tank to the floor between the <a href="/blog/installing-the-water-tank-pump-and-filters/">ventilation shafts</a>, I affixed two tension straps and small braces that firmly secured the tank in place, preventing any sliding.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5089.jpg" alt="Tension straps to secure the water tank" /></p>
<p>Thanks to quick couplings, connecting the tank to the pre-filters, post-filters, and the vent and overflow hose was quick and easy, simplifying the regular cleaning process.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5092.jpg" alt="Tank installed between the wheel houses" /></p>Overall, I was quite satisfied with the water system I had built for my previous van. However, I had discovered areas for improvement over the years: The filling nozzle went directly into the tank, meaning I always had to fill it with clean water to prevent contamination. During long stays of several months in locations with access to a well or a spring, I sometimes wished to be able to pump water directly into the water system of the cabin without having to fill the tank manually with a watering can. As I hadn’t installed a separate drain valve, emptying the tank required pumping the water through the entire system, including the filtration unit. And, of course, it would have been great to be able to store more than 90 liters.Building heating ventilation shafts2022-08-24T00:00:00+00:002022-08-24T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/building-heating-ventilation-shafts<p>After <a href="/blog/installing-a-hydronic-heating-system/">laying the heating pipes and installing the radiators</a>, I further refined the heating system by building ventilation shafts to facilitate airflow within the cabin. Cold air from the floor would be drawn into the shafts and warmed by the radiators. By narrowing the ventilation shafts upwards, the chimney effect would be improved, resulting in an additional acceleration of the warm, rising air.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/heating_airflow_diagram.jpg" alt="Diagram of the thermal airflow in the cabin" /></p>
<h2 id="building-the-foundational-structure">Building the foundational structure</h2>
<p>The shafts would be seamlessly integrated into the seating area, so I started with the construction of a robust foundational structure using spruce slats.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4883.jpg" alt="Parts of the foundational structure" /></p>
<p>After oiling and preparing all the parts, I proceeded to mount them within the cabin.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4935.jpg" alt="Parts of the foundational structure mounted within the cabin" /></p>
<h2 id="crafting-the-window-sills">Crafting the window sills</h2>
<p>I precisely fitted matching window sills from spruce slats that would sit on top of the fundamental structure.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4998.jpg" alt="Raw fitted window sills" /></p>
<p>I used my router to mill slots into the window sill, allowing the warm air to flow effectively through it and rise as close to the window as possible.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5007.jpg" alt="Milling slots into the window sill" /></p>
<p>I was satisfied with the initial prototype, so I proceeded in a similar fashion with the remaining window sills.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5028.jpg" alt="Oiled window sills ready to be mounted" /></p>
<p>Once finished sanding and oiling, I mounted the window sills in their designated positions under the windows.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5015.jpg" alt="Mounted window sills" /></p>
<p>On the rear wall, where there were no windows, I attached slightly narrower strips.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5016.jpg" alt="Mounted window sills" /></p>
<h2 id="covering-the-shafts">Covering the shafts</h2>
<p>Subsequently, I constructed and installed the backrests, which served as a cover for the inclined part of the ventilation shaft.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5032.jpg" alt="Mounted backrests" /></p>
<p>For the lower, straight sections, I built a small sliding door into the covers.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5039.jpg" alt="Sliding door in the cover for the lower section of the shaft" /></p>
<p>Through the small maintenance sliding door, access to the ventilation valve for the radiators positioned at the highest point in the rear section was available.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5069.jpg" alt="Ventilation valve behind the maintenance sliding door" /></p>
<p>When the door was closed, the warm air would flow nicely upward through the openings.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5066.jpg" alt="Covered ventilation shaft with closed maintenance door" /></p>
<p>The system was ready for its first practical test! Using the flame of a lighter, it was easy to observe how the warm air flowed upward from the slots in the window sills.</p>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/00CPalZ2AJw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<h2 id="building-ventilation-shafts-around-the-water-tank">Building ventilation shafts around the water tank</h2>
<p>Previously, in my van during winter, I would occasionally observe condensation forming in poorly ventilated areas on the wall of the water tank. To prevent this, I built additional ventilation shafts around the tank.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5089.jpg" alt="Ventilation shaft around the water tank" /></p>
<p>The warm air rising from these shafts would then function as heating for the area above the tank and beneath the table.</p>After laying the heating pipes and installing the radiators, I further refined the heating system by building ventilation shafts to facilitate airflow within the cabin. Cold air from the floor would be drawn into the shafts and warmed by the radiators. By narrowing the ventilation shafts upwards, the chimney effect would be improved, resulting in an additional acceleration of the warm, rising air.Installing a hydronic heating system2022-08-08T00:00:00+00:002022-08-08T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/installing-a-hydronic-heating-system<p>The <a href="/blog/installing-a-wood-stove/">wood stove</a> that I installed into my <a href="/blog/presenting-my-mercedes-508d/">Mercedes 508D</a> did a great job keeping the van warm and cosy. However, when spending a few months in Northern Europe, I also noticed a few problems with the heating system in my van: The heat didn’t spread evenly across the cabin. In particular, the lower corners in the back of the van under the seats were usually much colder than the open space around the wood stove. During long lasting wet periods, I had a hard time keeping these corners dry to prevent mold from forming. I also had to go without hot water in the northern hemisphere winter because there wasn’t enough solar energy to run my work laptop and electric boiler, which seemed counterintuitive: hot showers in summer but cold showers in winter?!?</p>
<h2 id="improving-the-concept">Improving the concept</h2>
<p>To overcome the shortcomings of the previous heating system in my van, I developed a new concept for the truck: a hydronic heating system with multiple sources of heat: a wood stove (1), the engine’s cooling system through a separate heat exchanger (2) and an electric boiler (3). With the help of pipes and radiators (5) I would be able to transport the heat into corners and places that were out of reach of the wood stove. Exchanging heat between the cooling circuit of the engine (C1, green) and the heating system of the cabin (C2, purple) would also allow me to preheat the engine with the wood stove on cold days for better starting ability.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/heating_system.jpg" alt="Abstract diagram of the hydronic heating system of my Mercedes 1113 camper truck" /></p>
<p>I divided the heating circuit of the cabin into two parts. A short circuit (C2a, bright purple) only connected the heat sources, which would allow me to heat the water in the boiler on warm days without heating the cabin unnecessarily. A three-way valve (4) would allow me to enable an extended circuit (C2b, dark purple), which additionally included a series of radiators placed in all the corners of the cabin to improve the thermal ventilation in these hidden places.</p>
<p>A flexible expansion tank (7) with an air outlet would be mounted at the highest point of the circuit. It was meant to equalize the pressure in the circuit. It also served as inlet for filling the liquid into the heating system. An additional three-way valve (6) mounted before the expansion tank and pump (8) would allow to easily top up, replace or remove the heater liquid:</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/maintaining_heating_circuit.jpg" alt="Diagram show-casing the function of the maintenance valve of the heating system" /></p>
<h2 id="using-the-wood-stove-as-a-heat-source">Using the wood stove as a heat source</h2>
<p>To heat the liquid with the wood stove, I installed a stainless steel coil in the chimney directly above the stove.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_3492.jpg" alt="Heat exchanger embedded into the chimney" /></p>
<p>I installed a vent valve behind the outlet of the heat exchanger in the chimney. Since there wasn’t a lot of space between the wall and the chimney, I decided to build aluminum heat shields.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4217.jpg" alt="Aluminum heat shield" /></p>
<p>Mounted behind the shields, the rubber angle hoses were protected from the stove’s heat radiation.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4230.jpg" alt="Rubber angle hoses mounted behind the aluminum heat shield" /></p>
<p>By opening the vent valve from the top, air could be easily removed from the heating system.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4231.jpg" alt="Mounted vent valve" /></p>
<p>Permanently running the pump seemed like a waste of electricity. The cooling of the smoke while lighting a fire when the chimney was still cold also had a negative effect on the chimney draft, so I attached a heat senor on the outlet of the heat exchanger.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5597.jpg" alt="Heat sensor attached to the outlet of the heat exchanger in the chimney" /></p>
<p>A tiny microcontroller connected to the sensor automatically switched on the pump a few seconds before the liquid in the pipe would begin to boil and switched it off as soon as the pipe would cool down to about 40 to 50 degrees Celsius. Additionally, I installed a switch that would allow to manually override the microcontroller by turning the pump on or off.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5047.jpg" alt="Switch and microcontroller for the pump" /></p>
<h2 id="installing-the-other-components">Installing the other components</h2>
<p>The three-way service valve, expansion tank and heat exchanger for the engine’s cooling system fit nicely into the wardrobe behind the wood stove.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4234.jpg" alt="Heat exchanger transferring heat from the engine cooling circuit to the heating circuit in the cabin" /></p>
<p>I placed the 25 liter electric boiler right in front of the bathroom to keep the hot water pipes as short a possible.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4227.jpg" alt="Electric boiler in front of the bathroom" /></p>
<p>To heat and dry the bathroom, I built a fan supported radiator.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4214.jpg" alt="Fan supported Radiator for the bathroom" /></p>
<p>Mounted into the bottom of the cubicle wall, the fans would blow air through the radiator into the bathroom to further increase the radiator’s performance.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4396.jpg" alt="Radiator built into the bottom of the cubicle wall" /></p>
<h2 id="installing-the-radiators-in-the-living-space">Installing the radiators in the living space</h2>
<p>Once the short circuit was installed, I layed the pipes for the extended circuit for heating the living space.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4938.jpg" alt="Pipes going to the back of the cabin" /></p>
<p>I routed a duct in the floor at the back of the cabin. Embedding the heating pipe directly in front of the back door would have a positive thermal effect on the cold air that might potentially come in through the door gap.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4774.jpg" alt="Duct for the heating pipe in the floor at the back of the cabin" /></p>
<p>Step by step, I installed all the radiators and vent valves in the places where I planned to build the seating area and install the water tank.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4941_2.jpg" alt="Radiators installed at the back of the cabin" /></p>
<p>Once all pipes were layed, I could finally fill the liquid (glycol) into the system.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5060.jpg" alt="Glycol in the expansion tank" /></p>
<p>After running the pump for a couple of hours and releasing all the air through the vent valves, the system was ready for its first test!</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_5215.jpg" alt="Wood stove heating up the liquid" /></p>
<p>Shortly after lighting the fire, the pump began pumping fluid through the system. The feeling of warmth in the radiators brought a big smile to my face. I was really happy to have turned my new concept into reality! :fire: :tada:</p>The wood stove that I installed into my Mercedes 508D did a great job keeping the van warm and cosy. However, when spending a few months in Northern Europe, I also noticed a few problems with the heating system in my van: The heat didn’t spread evenly across the cabin. In particular, the lower corners in the back of the van under the seats were usually much colder than the open space around the wood stove. During long lasting wet periods, I had a hard time keeping these corners dry to prevent mold from forming. I also had to go without hot water in the northern hemisphere winter because there wasn’t enough solar energy to run my work laptop and electric boiler, which seemed counterintuitive: hot showers in summer but cold showers in winter?!?Building foldable stairs2022-07-07T00:00:00+00:002022-07-07T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/building-foldable-stairs<p>Before <a href="/blog/wiring-the-electrical-devices/">setting up the electrical system</a>, I used a simple wooden ladder to access the sleeping area of the truck.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4021.jpg" alt="Simple ladder" /></p>
<p>I didn’t like the ladder. It was quite steep, so leaving the sleeping area was a little inconvenient. It also blocked the area in front of the <a href="/blog/building-the-wardrobe/">wardrobe</a>, so each time I wanted to open the door of the wardrobe, I had to move the ladder and make sure it wouldn’t slide away. I also had to stow away and secure it while driving.</p>
<p>I really liked the idea of a foldable staircase that would be mounted to the wall and provide the possibility of clearing the space in front of the wardrobe easily. Calculating the angles and dimensions of the cut-outs challenged my geometry skills but after sketching down my thoughts on a piece of paper and building I little prototype, I was finally able to prepare the side panels of the stairs.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4736.jpg" alt="Side panels" /></p>
<p>I mounted the steps with hinges on the side panels, which made it possible to fold the entire staircase.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4737.jpg" alt="Stairs mounted to the side panels" /></p>
<p>I screwed the left and shorter side panel to the wall of the <a href="/blog/building-the-skeleton-of-the-bathroom/">bathroom cabin</a>. The right and higher side panel loosely rested on the top and bottom floor.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4738.jpg" alt="Unfolded stairs" /></p>
<p>The construction provided enough stability to comfortably move the stairs up and down and could be easily folded to the side to clear the space in front of the wardrobe.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4739.jpg" alt="Folded stairs" /></p>
<p>I really liked the new stairs. Moving in and out of the sleeping area became much more comfortable, the wardrobe was easy to access and the stairs were permanently secured.</p>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-rBd1EFCOH8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>Before setting up the electrical system, I used a simple wooden ladder to access the sleeping area of the truck.Wiring the electrical devices2022-07-06T00:00:00+00:002022-07-06T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/wiring-the-electrical-devices<p>After <a href="/blog/installing-2200w-of-solar-power-on-the-roof/">installing the solar panels</a>, I focused on the electrical system of the cabin. I envisioned a setup comparable to a regular house providing sufficient capacity during the winter, several 230V AC, 24V DC, 12V DC and USB power outlets for all kind of consumers. I also wanted to be able to operate professional power tools without having to worry during cloudy days, so the setup I envisioned for the truck was meant to become a little more complicated than <a href="/blog/testing-my-new-equipment/#wiring">the one of my van</a>.</p>
<h2 id="picking-the-components">Picking the components</h2>
<p>Similar to how I had increased the total power of the solar system by a factor of four, I also bought four times the battery capacity. I increased the basic voltage from 12V up to 24V to cut the required cross-section of the cables in half. While my van was equipped with a 200Ah 12V lithium battery, I had ordered two 200Ah 24(25,6)V lithium batteries which resulted in a total capacity of 10.2kWh for the truck.</p>
<p>The <a href="/blog/installing-2200w-of-solar-power-on-the-roof/">2200Wp solar system</a> was meant to be the main source of power. I planned to operate two solar charge controllers in parallel. One for the five solar panels on the front roof, which were connected in series and able to deliver about 1000W at a voltage of about 100V. And another charge controller for the six solar panels on the back roof, which were also connected in series and able to deliver about 1200W at a voltage of about 120V.</p>
<p>For unexpected emergencies, I wanted to be able to charge the 24V batteries by connecting the truck’s 12V alternator through a DC-DC charger or an external 230V power source.</p>
<p>I bought most of the electrical components right after <a href="/blog/starting-the-new-project/">starting the truck project</a> in 2021. I luckily placed the orders just a few months before we faced a global energy crisis that resulted in high prices and low availability of products related to solar energy. Even before the crisis, certain devices were hard to get, because global supply chains were heavily interrupted by the effects of the Corona pandemic.</p>
<p>I was quite happy with the <a href="/blog/installing-the-water-system/#boiler">12V DC boiler in my van</a>, however all DC boilers I could find were out of stock and not deliverable. After sending several emails and making a bunch of phone calls, I finally gave up on a DC boiler and managed to get hold on a left-over 230V AC boiler that suited my needs.</p>
<p>Because of the boiler, I had to rely on a permanent 230V AC system, so I decided to switch from a 12V compressor cooler to a regular 230V refrigerator. Domestic refrigerator offered a separate freezer and were almost six times cheaper than coolers optimized for campers. I had enough space in the truck and had to setup a proper 230V AC system for the boiler anyways, so it seemed worth to try a domestic fridge.</p>
<p>The <a href="/blog/testing-my-new-equipment/#electric-cooker">2000W induction cooker in my van</a> did a good job. However, I sometimes missed a second cooking element, so I went for a 3500W induction cooker with two elements.</p>
<p>Once I had picked all the 230V AC consumers, it was obvious that I needed a very powerful and reliable inverter. In contrast to the setup in my van, the inverter of the truck had to constantly provide voltage to ensure that the fridge or boiler could automatically run when needed. Reading through the specs of several inverters made me worry about the energy I’d lose while running the inverter for 24 hours every day. Depending on the brand, some inverters would consume up to 2A while idling. Good ones seemed to get along with 1A. But even 1A meant wasting about 25W for nothing which summed up to 600Wh a day. 600Wh of energy was more than I needed for a regular working day on my laptop. :see_no_evil:</p>
<p>I started questioning my setup. But the interrupted supply chains forced me to stick to the 230V system. The <a href="https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters/phoenix-inverter-smart">Phoenix inverter</a> of Victron Energy caught my attention. It was equipped with a smart eco-mode feature that would shut down the inverter while idling and regularly provide a voltage of 230V to shortly check if any consumers were active. The duration of the intervals and the power thresholds were configurable and made it possible to operate the inverter with only 2W in idle mode. 48Wh a day seemed very acceptable and much better than 600Wh. I had made great experiences with Victron Energy’s products in my van. I didn’t find any other options, so I ended up accepting the high price and bought a Phoenix inverter. I picked the 24V and 5000W version which provided enough capacity for my domestic consumers and all my power tools.</p>
<p>While I spent a couple of days for looking for a suitable inverter, I was much faster selecting the remaining components of the system like a battery management system for balancing the cells, a battery monitor to measure the voltage, current and capacity of the batteries, a 65A battery protector for the DC consumers, a 100A battery protector for the chargers, a 24V to 12V DC-DC converter, a residual-current device to protect the 230V AC system against circuits, fuse boxes, cables, lugs and so on. I finally had all the components and was ready to wire them up!</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/wiring_diagram_mb_1113.jpg" alt="Wiring diagram" /></p>
<h2 id="wiring-the-components">Wiring the components</h2>
<p>The Phoenix 24/5000 inverter supported a peak power of 10000W, so I had to pick proper cables that would be able to handle about 400A. After reading through the Information Technology Society’s <a href="https://www.vde-verlag.de/buecher/leseprobe/9783800746910_PROBE_01.pdf">DIN VDE 0298-4 specification</a> that defined current carrying capacities for cables, I decided to use two 95mm² cables to connect the batteries.</p>
<p>I preferred to protect the system against circuits as close to the battery poles as possible. During my research, I found out about CF8 fuses that could be mounted directly on the battery without requiring wires between the battery and the fuse. As I had limited height available, I needed to build a little adapter out of copper that allowed me to mount the fuses in a way that wouldn’t require additional vertical space.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4201.jpg" alt="CF-8 fuses mounted on the batteries" /></p>
<p>Pressing the lugs on the gigantic cables was quite time consuming and required a big hydraulic press.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4187.jpg" alt="Pressing the lugs on the cables with a hydraulic press" /></p>
<p>I built a bunch of custom copper bars to reduce the number of cables and lugs.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4192.jpg" alt="Customized copper bar" /></p>
<p>These copper bars allowed me to efficiently connect the electrical components without needing a lot of space.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4196.jpg" alt="Electrical components connected with a copper bar" /></p>
<p>During my research, I found solid clamps that were used to connect cables with copper bars in industrial applications.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4200.jpg" alt="Cables connected to the copper bar with special clamps" /></p>
<p>I saved a lot of time and money using these clamps because I didn’t have to press lugs on all the cables. Compared to the over-priced bus-bars that were advertised on several van, RV and boat shops, the industrial clamps were quite affordable. Most of these expensive bus-bars didn’t even support more than 200A. I struggled finding bus-bars that suited my needs, so I ended up building my own bus-bars using simple copper bars and the clamps. My custom bus-bars were much cheaper and able to handle more than 400A. Connecting the cables was also very pleasant. I liked them a lot!</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4751.jpg" alt="Custom bus-bar" /></p>
<p>Each consumer and each charger was separately protected by a matching fuse: a 400A MEGA fuse for the inverter, several MIDI fuses for the chargers and blade fuses for the 24V and 12V consumers.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4753.jpg" alt="Fuse boxes" /></p>
<p>The custom bus-bars helped a lot to fit all components into the limited space between the <a href="/blog/building-the-skeleton-of-the-bathroom/">bathroom</a> and the <a href="/blog/building-the-wardrobe/">wardrobe</a>.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4749.jpg" alt="All components wired up" /></p>
<p>Once everything was installed and wired up, I cut, sanded and waxed a thick wooden panel to cover the electrical system.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4732.jpg" alt="All components wired up" /></p>
<h2 id="testing-the-system">Testing the system</h2>
<p>The system was ready for the first test: I connected a bunch of power tools to the truck’s 230V system: a heat gun, two flood lamps, a table saw and a drill press.</p>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z4gz6wllyEY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>I was finally able to autonomously supply the entire workshop with solar energy. Amazing! :sunny: :electric_plug:</p>After installing the solar panels, I focused on the electrical system of the cabin. I envisioned a setup comparable to a regular house providing sufficient capacity during the winter, several 230V AC, 24V DC, 12V DC and USB power outlets for all kind of consumers. I also wanted to be able to operate professional power tools without having to worry during cloudy days, so the setup I envisioned for the truck was meant to become a little more complicated than the one of my van.Installing 2200W of solar power on the roof2022-06-22T00:00:00+00:002022-06-22T00:00:00+00:00https://ruby-on-wheels.github.io/blog/installing-2200w-of-solar-power-on-the-roof<p>The <a href="/blog/renovating-the-roof/">roof was renovated</a> and equipped with custom mounting points for the solar panels. It was about time to install the panels that I had ordered during the winter when the prices and delivery times were still appropriate.</p>
<p>The <a href="/blog/moving-into-an-old-military-ambulance/#solar-system">500W solar system of my van</a> provided sufficient power from spring to autumn to operate all my electric devices. But when staying in Germany during the winter, I had to give up on some comfort: On an average winter day, the system made only about 300Wh a day, so there was only enough power to run my laptop, the WiFi router and the LED lights. I couldn’t use the boiler, induction cooker or the fridge.</p>
<p>The roof of the truck offered much more space, so I was able to optimize my setup for the winter: the more panels the better. Luckily, I found a manufacturer offering 200W solar panels that nicely matched with the dimensions of the roof: Five on the front roof and six on the back roof, so 2200W in total. This was more than four times of the capacity that I had installed on my Mercedes 508D. 2200W would provide much more flexibility when spending time in the north during the winter.</p>
<h2 id="installing-the-panels">Installing the panels</h2>
<p>Installing the panels on the roof was straight forward. The semi-flexible solar panels nicely aligned with the <a href="/blog/renovating-the-roof/#mounting-points">curved mounting points on the roof</a>.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4485.jpg" alt="Solar panels mounted on the front roof" /></p>
<p>It didn’t take much time to mount the five panels on the front roof.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4486.jpg" alt="Five solar panels mounted on the front roof" /></p>
<p>The six panels on the back were also mounted quickly.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4638.jpg" alt="11 solar panels mounted on the front and back roof" /></p>
<p>Once all the panels were installed, I wired everything up. All panels on the front roof were connected in series. So were the panels in the back. Connecting all panels in series would have resulted in a very high voltage. I already had a solar charger that didn’t support the high voltage, so I decided to run two solar chargers in parallel. One for the front roof and one for the back roof. I routed the cables through one of the portholes that were nicely protected from the weather by the overhanging roof.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4634.jpg" alt="Cables connecting the solar panels and the charge controller inside the cabin" /></p>
<p>Nice! I was finally able to autonomously supply my truck with electricity.</p>
<p><img src="/assets/images/IMG_4637.jpg" alt="Mercedes 1113 with 2200W solar panels on the roof" /></p>The roof was renovated and equipped with custom mounting points for the solar panels. It was about time to install the panels that I had ordered during the winter when the prices and delivery times were still appropriate.