Learning to appreciate La Gomera

March 9, 2020

A historic Calima unexpectedly extended my stay on El Hierro. A Calima is a meteorological phenomenon that describes a strong and hot wind blowing dust from the Sahara over the Canary Islands. The sea was really rough, so I decided to stay a little longer instead of getting sea sick on the ferry to La Gomera.

Rough sea during the Calima

The air was still very dusty after the storm calmed down. It was even possible to look into the sun without sunglasses.

Dusty air after the Calima

Questioning La Gomera

When the weather finally improved, I took the ferry to La Gomera. I spent my first night on the third smallest of the Canary Islands at Playa de Ávalo.

Playa de Ávalo

Unfortunately, the network connection was really unreliable in the canyon, so I had to drive back to San Sebastián de La Gomera. I quickly left the town after work to look for a better spot in the mountains. While the network connection was brilliant more than 1000 meters above sea level, the view was very disappointing.

Bad view from Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Las Nieves

The island was still covered in dust from the Calima. The mountains didn’t seem like an attractive place to stay, so I drove down to Playa de Tapachuga hoping for a nice spot at the beach.

Playa de Tapachuga

The spot look promising. I also spotted a few interesting vans in front of the beach. Unfortunately, I had the same problem when driving down the canyon: no network signal. :-1: I had to switch the canyon to work from the beach front near Laguna de Santiago.

Beach front near Laguna de Santiago

I didn’t really like the vibe in Laguna de Santiago and Playa de Santiago. I started to miss El Hierro where I was excited about every spot I visited. Maybe La Gomera wasn’t the right place for me?

Changing my opinion

My initial concerns suddenly disappeared when I drove from Laguna de Santiago toward Valle Gran Rey. The air seemed way cleaner when I drove up the canyon.

View into a canyon near Laguna de Santiago

My route lead me on road GM-2 through Parque Nacional de Garajonay which looked amazing. All the dust was finally gone and I could even see Pico del Teide on Tenerife.

View on Pico del Teide from La Gomera

A few kilometers in front of Valley Gran Rey, I was also able to spot Roque de los Muchachos on La Palma.

View on La Palma from La Gomera

Awesome, I was excited again!

Working amongst Hippies

Valley Gran Rey seemed like a hotspot for Hippies, especially for Germans. The spectrum reached from bearded low-budget hobos living in caves or tents, to hotel guests wearing hippie costumes and listing to music through their Bose headphones while lying naked on the beach. It was hard to distinguish between the “real” hippies and the tourists that wanted to enjoy the hippie lifestyle during their vacation. Although a lot of different characters were mixed in this little beach town, they all seemed to get along with each other: Some hippies built jewelry, played music or performed shows and other “hippies” financially supported them by buying their products or donating some money.

Sunset at Valley Gran Rey

I didn’t feel like staying in the center of the town and stayed a little secludedly next to a soccer field in front of Playa del Inglés. I liked the spot. After hopping from one place to the other, I had finally found a place where I could stay for a couple of days to work in a relaxed environment.

Sunset at Playa del Inglés

Exploring the north and east

I wanted to use the weekend to explore the beautiful nature that I saw on my way to Valley Gran Rey. I had enough of all the hippies, so I left Valley Gran Rey headed to the northern and eastern part of the island. Places like Tamargada seemed much more pristine and less touristic.

View on Tamargada

I found a natural pool near Santa Catalina which was amazing.

Natural pool near Santa Catalina

I really dig these freely accessible pools that you can find all around the Canary Islands.

Hiking through paradise on Routa 18

My day ended in the forest near El Cedro.

Natural pool near Santa Catalina

While strolling around the parking lot, I found an interesting sign describing Routa 18, la Gomera’s longest hiking trail through Parque Nacional de Garajonay.

Sign describing Routa 18

A 16km round trip through different kinds of ecosystems sounded awesome! I started the hike the very next morning.

Path of Routa 18 in the morning

The path lead through the dense forest. The air smelled really fresh and most trees were covered by moss.

Trees were covered by moss

After hiking for a couple of hours through the forest without seeing anything but trees, I reached a little clearing that offered a stunning view.

View from a little clearing on Routa 18

While ascending toward the highest point of the island, the greenery started changing. Instead of trees, flowers were growing next to the trail.

Flowers on Routa 18

Bees were busily flying from one flower to the other. :honeybee:

Bee on Routa 18

I also spotted a lot of lizards, like this little guy:

Lizard on Routa 18

After about three hours I reached Alto de Garajonay, the highest peak of La Gomera.

View from Alto de Garajonay

On my way down, I spotted a little creek. It was the first time that I saw a natural stream on the Canary Islands.

Creek on Routa 18

I ended my trip cheerfully in El Cedro where I had parked my van.

El Cedro

What an awesome hiking trip! The sign said that the round trip would take about nine hours. I already returned after six hours, so there was enough time left to drive back to Playa de Ávalo for a refreshing bath in the sea.

Playa de Ávalo

I spent my last night at the same place where I spent my first night. However, my feelings were totally different. I was really happy that I didn’t prejudge the island. La Gomera was awesome!