My first days in Africa

January 15, 2018

I spend a very relaxed work week at Playa de dos Lances after my little misfortune in the backcountry. From the beach you could clearly see the mountains in Africa.

View to Africa

Some of the vehicles parked next to the beach told a story about their owners: They were on their way into the desert on the other side of the ocean. Awesome! :sunglasses:

Off-road truck

Off-road truck

Inspired by stories from other vandwellers and the chance to experience temperatures above 20 degrees Celsius in January, I also wanted to go to the other continent!

Leaving Europe

I talked with some people about Morocco and only a few minutes later, I was sitting in Klaus’ van. Klaus is a true character. Besides his (really!) interesting life story, he also told me about his guided camping tours through Morocco. Through his business he’s able to offer cheap ferry tickets from Tarifa to Tangier. Even without the tour. I was sold! I handed my papers to Klaus and the next day, he gave me tickets with an open return date for me and my van. He additionally gave me a bunch of helpful tips to get along in Morocco. Thanks again Klaus! :metal:

I was super excited when I woke up on Saturday morning. I drove down to the harbor were I waited for the ferry.

Arriving Ferry

At 11am we left the harbor. There wasn’t much time left after getting my passport checked and stamped on the ferry. The high speed ride from Tarifa to Tangier lasted 35 minutes.

Ferry ride to Tarifa

Getting ready for Morocco

The liability insurance for my van unfortunately doesn’t cover Morocco. So, I had to find a local insurance before entering the country. There was an office right at the harbor. But the prices were mind blowing: 1,500 MAD a month. I remembered that some people told me about rates around 1,000 MAD.

While I was unsuccessfully trying to get some money out of the ATM at the harbor, a local guy approached me and offered help. He spoke English pretty well. Useful! We parked my van in the harbor where “his friends” watched it. His “befriended” taxi driver drove us around the city. We stopped at a bank where I could finally get some cash. Next, we drove to the office of the same company that offered the expensive insurance at the harbor. At the office my “friend” translated everything. Et voilà, I had an insurance for my van for 650 MAD a month. We also got a SIM card from Maroc Telecom on the way back to the harbor. :+1:

I had everything I needed when we came back to my van: cash, insurance and a SIM card. Of course my “friend” wanted to get some money for the service he and his “friends” provided. I’m very sure that I paid way too much for the cab ride. But when I break it down, I ended up paying about 800 MAD a month for the insurance which still seems ok. The guy was friendly and really helpful. Who cares. I was happy. Next time, I’ll cycle into the city to the office and get the insurance for 650 MAD. :wink:

Leaving Tangier

I didn’t feel like spending much more time in Tangier. Too much chaos and too many people who wanted to offer their “services”. I drove straightly on the highway headed to Moulay Bousselham. Although it started raining, I really enjoyed the ride. Within one hour, I saw at least 50 Mercedes-Benz 601 models. The same vehicle that carries my camper. My van was finally united with its brothers and sisters again! :heart:

Mercedes-Benz 601 model

The rain transformed some of the roads in Moulay Bousselham into little rivers.

Broken and flooded road

Instead of going for another off-road adventure, I stayed on paved roads and checked into a campsite. It was a nice and calm spot right next to the laguna that was used as a parking lot for fisher boats.

Boats in the laguna

While strolling around Moulay Bousselham, I learned my first language lessons: “Marhabaan” means “hello” and “shukran” means “thanks”. I don’t know how to pronounce “قف”, but I know that it means “stop”. :laughing:

Stop sign in Moulay Bousselham

Escaping the rain

The rain calmed down over night, but in the morning gray clouds were approaching the bay again. The weather forecast for the north of Morocco didn’t look great. In the hope of better weather, I decide to spend the Sunday driving south as far as possible. I drove down highway A1 with an average speed of 80km/h. Relaxed cruising speed. :sunglasses:

I passed Rabat, Morocco’s capital and Casablanca. I could see the blue sky near El Jadida again. The fields looked very green. The farmers were probably happy about all the rain.

Green fields near El Jadida

Experiencing Morocco on the highway

Driving down the highway was an interesting experience. In Europe highways are usually fenced roads that are only accessible by vehicles that drive at least 70km/h. That’s a bit different in Morocco. Shepherds were waving right next to the road while they took care of their sheep. I also passed a lot of people walking, running or cycling on the highway. Sometimes people would even cross the highway. Like an old man who pushed a wheelbarrow with a huge gas cylinder across the road. :open_mouth:

I also marveled at the loading techniques of the Moroccan people. Some trucks were loaded reaching double their height.

Loaded trucks

Others transported a fridge and bicycles without any rack on the roof of their car. Their roof seemed about to collapse under all the weight. :sweat_smile:

I had a very welcoming impression of the people I got in touch with at rest stops. They usually greeted me with “Welcome! How do you like Morocco?” and were always up for some small talk. Except for the rainy weather, I really liked Morocco so far. :+1:

Ending my weekend in Oualidia

I left the highway after more than six hours and followed a paved road towards the coast.

Loaded trucks

I ended up in Oualidia where I enjoyed a cloudy but beautiful sunset.

Sunset in Oualidia

A rainy but great start of my trip to Africa. I’m looking forward to all the things ahead of me! :sunrise: